JJ Valaya: Celebrating Chandigarh and Redefining Indian Couture

Valaya's connection to Chandigarh is deeply personal. As one of the founding students of Yadavindra Public School, he cherishes the memories tied to the city. He reminisces about the captivating photographs by The Tribune's photojournalist Yog Joy, the newspaper's iconic ticker that became a part of the city's daily life, and the fact that Joy's son was his classmate. "I have absolute and pure love for Chandigarh—that's what I carry in my heart," he shared.

Research-Driven Fashion

With over thirty years in the industry, Valaya has established himself as a leading figure in Indian fashion, known for blending royal heritage with modern couture. He observes that today's consumers are more discerning than ever, attributing this shift to the influence of social media, which has exposed them to global styles. While he acknowledges the role of artificial intelligence in the creative process, he remains cautiously optimistic, stating, "AI is fantastic—as long as it enhances productivity without making us complacent."

Valaya emphasizes that technology cannot replace the intricate process of meaningful design. He considers himself "a very big researcher," explaining that each collection is preceded by months of exploration before any sketches are made. "Many designers create appealing garments first and seek inspiration later, which is unfortunate. There’s a distinction between being a fashion designer and merely stitching clothes," he remarked.

This philosophy translates into extensive preparation, as a collection showcased on the runway for a mere 20 minutes is the result of months of hard work.

Launching Future Stars

Throughout his career, Valaya's runway has been a platform for many who later became prominent actors, including Aishwarya Rai, Katrina Kaif, Deepika Padukone, and Lara Dutta, as well as John Abraham, Arjun Rampal, and Milind Soman. Recently, he introduced Ibrahim Ali Khan and Rasha Thadani on his runway, with Rasha's debut holding a personal significance. "Her mother, Raveena, is a dear friend, and she had decided long ago that Rasha's first ramp walk would be for me," he shared.

From Bollywood to Hollywood

Valaya's designs have made their mark not only in Indian cinema but also in Hollywood. He recalls his work on films like Coming to America and Black Panther: Wakanda Forever as pivotal moments in his career. Collaborating with Academy Award-winning costume designer Ruth E. Carter for Angela Bassett's costumes was particularly rewarding. "Working with Ruth and an actress of Angela's caliber was incredibly fulfilling. When Angela won the Golden Globe, it felt like a victory for me too; our small contribution to her role was truly special," he reflected.

Heritage Meets Modernity

Valaya's designs often draw inspiration from India's royal heritage, a passion rooted in his upbringing in Jodhpur. "The most exquisite art pieces in India were commissioned by royalty, and that’s something to celebrate," he noted. His influences range from the opulence of the Ottoman Empire to the innovative designs of architect Zaha Hadid.

The Signature Style

When discussing color, Valaya remains inspired by India's iconic red. His signature black-and-ivory chevron pattern is a hallmark of the JJ Valaya brand. Off the runway, his personal style is refreshingly simple. Dressed in an ivory kurta set layered with a matching sleeveless jacket and tailored black trousers, topped with a black-and-ivory chevron-patterned turban, he describes it as his uniform.

Looking Ahead

Shortly after his visit to Chandigarh, Valaya was set to return for fittings at the India Couture Week, as he continues to expand his flagship store in anticipation of another bustling fashion season. If his life were to be depicted as a couture collection, he already has a title in mind: "The Maharaja Reborn," he said with a smile, a fitting description for a designer who has dedicated decades to reinterpreting India's royal legacy for contemporary wardrobes.