Tragic Avalanche Claims the Life of Renowned Climber Nirmal Purja on Broad Peak
Nirmal Purja's Final Ascent
Kathmandu: Just three days prior to his disappearance, Nirmal Purja shared a heartfelt message on his X account, stating, “Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one.”
Unfortunately, the Nepali-British climber, affectionately known as Nims or Nimsdai, faced a tragic fate.
At the age of 43, Purja was among ten climbers who were caught in an avalanche on Broad Peak, which is situated in Pakistan-occupied Kashmir's Gilgit-Baltistan region, at an elevation of approximately 7,000 meters on Thursday.
The expedition company he founded, Elite Exped, confirmed his death on Saturday, stating that no one from the expedition survived the avalanche.
This expedition marked the conclusion of Purja's remarkable mountaineering journey. Broad Peak is recognized as the 12th highest mountain globally and is known for its challenging ascent.
In 2019, Purja made headlines by climbing all 14 of the world's peaks exceeding 8,000 meters in just six months and six days, setting a new world record. He was on the verge of completing his mission to summit all 14 eight-thousanders a second time after Broad Peak.
Ang Tshering Sherpa, the former president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, praised Purja as “one of the best climbers” globally, noting his extensive experience with eight-thousanders.
Purja's impressive accomplishments include not only the fastest ascent of the world's 14 tallest mountains using supplemental oxygen but also the quickest summits of Everest, K2, and Kanchenjunga. He was among the first climbers to reach the summit of K2 in winter in January 2021.
Despite his extraordinary skills, Purja did not grow up in the Himalayas. Born on July 25, 1983, in Myagdi district of Gandaki Province, he was raised in Chitwan, a region known for its flatlands.
Although he excelled academically, Purja initially aspired to follow in his family's footsteps and join the British military as a Gurkha.
Starting in 2003, he had a distinguished military career spanning 16 years, including six years as a Gurkha and ten years with the UK Special Forces (SBS).
In 2018, he was honored as a Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE).
According to the UK's Gurkha Museum, Purja was the first Gurkha to join the UK Special Boat Service, a unit primarily composed of Royal Marines, known for its elite status.
His time with the SBS sparked his interest in mountaineering, which quickly turned into a passion. In December 2012, while on leave from his Special Forces duties, he trekked to Everest Base Camp, igniting his ambition for climbing.
Following his military career, Purja embarked on a record-setting mountaineering journey.
His 'Project Possible 14/7' initiative saw him conquer all 14 eight-thousanders in a record-breaking six months and six days.
He documented his incredible journey in the book 'Beyond Possible: One Soldier, Fourteen Peaks – My Life in the Death Zone.'
In November 2021, he was featured in a Netflix documentary titled '14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible,' which chronicled his team's attempt to climb all 14 eight-thousanders in under seven months.
Purja's public life was not without its controversies. In 2024, he faced allegations regarding his companies, leading him to file a complaint with the Nepal Press Council, which ruled in his favor in February 2025, blacklisting the newspaper that published the allegations.
He also faced accusations of sexual harassment from two foreign individuals, which he vehemently denied as false and defamatory.