Tragic Loss of Nepali Guide Amid Everest Climbing Season

A Nepali mountain guide, Bijay Ghimire, tragically passed away due to altitude sickness while acclimatizing on Mount Everest. This incident underscores the inherent risks associated with high-altitude climbing. The Department of Tourism has issued numerous climbing permits this season, despite recent accidents and increased fees. The climbing community remains vigilant as they navigate the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, known for its unstable ice formations. This spring, Nepal continues to attract many climbers, even amidst geopolitical tensions affecting travel. Read on for more details about this unfortunate event and the ongoing climbing season.

By Narendra Chaudhary May 12, 2026, 12:33 IST

Nepali Guide Dies During Everest Acclimatization

Photo: IANS

Kathmandu, May 12: A tragic incident occurred in the Mount Qomolangma area as a Nepali mountain guide lost his life during acclimatization, according to a government spokesperson.

Bijay Ghimire, aged 35, had previously reached the summit of the 8,848.86-meter peak three times in 2016, 2019, and 2023. He succumbed to altitude sickness on Sunday while fulfilling his duties as a mountain guide, as stated by Himal Gautam, an information officer at the Department of Tourism, in a report released on Monday evening.

This spring season, the department has granted a total of 492 permits to climbers aiming to reach the summit.

On May 5, two climbers, including an Indian mountaineer and a Sherpa guide, sustained injuries due to a serac collapse along the Khumbu Icefall route on Mt. Everest, as reported by Nepal's Department of Tourism.

The injured individuals were identified as 40-year-old Nimish Kumar Singh from India and 44-year-old Pembha Tenduk Sherpa, a local mountain guide.

The incident took place around 5:45 a.m. on Tuesday when falling ice from a serac collapse struck the main climbing route, impacting members of the expedition team.

A serac is a large, unstable ice formation that can occur on glaciers, often resulting from intersecting crevasses.

At the time of the accident, climbers and Sherpa guides with permits were making their way from Camp II to Camp I via the Khumbu Icefall as part of their acclimatization efforts, having previously ascended from Everest Base Camp.

The Khumbu Icefall is notorious for its perilous conditions, characterized by frequent ice shifts and serac collapses, especially during the early climbing season.

Following the incident, a team of Sherpa guides from Pioneer Adventure Pvt. Ltd. and Summit Force Expedition promptly initiated a rescue operation and alerted officials at Everest Base Camp.

A helicopter evacuation was swiftly organized by a team from Seven Summit Trek Pvt. Ltd., and by around 6:30 a.m., a helicopter arrived from Lukla airport to airlift the injured to Kathmandu for medical attention.

Despite the government increasing the climbing royalty fee to $5,000 from $2,500 per person and ongoing flight disruptions due to the conflict in West Asia between the United States and Iran, Nepal has seen a significant influx of mountaineers this spring season, particularly those aspiring to summit Mt. Everest.