The Legacy of Rash Behari Bose: From Revolutionary to Culinary Icon in Tokyo

A Culinary Journey in Shinjuku

Located on the second basement level of a building in Shinjuku, Tokyo, Manna is a restaurant renowned for its chicken curry, a dish that has been part of its menu for nearly a century. During lunch hours, office workers flock to the eatery, while tourists often line up outside on weekends. This iconic dish has garnered attention from food historians in Japan, featured in various newspapers, and is even available as a ready-to-eat meal in supermarkets nationwide under the Nakamuraya brand. Interestingly, few diners are aware that the recipe was created by a Bengali revolutionary who arrived in Tokyo in 1915, fleeing a death sentence in India and ultimately choosing to make Japan his home.

A Revolutionary's Escape

A Death Sentence In Delhi

Rash Behari Bose, born in 1886 in West Bengal's Subaldaha village, was a key figure in the Delhi Conspiracy Case of 1912, which involved an assassination attempt on Lord Hardinge, the British Viceroy of India. Although the attempt failed, it led to Bose being linked to the Ghadar conspiracy in 1915, resulting in a death sentence if apprehended. In June of that year, he disguised himself as P.N. Thakur, a relative of Rabindranath Tagore, and sailed from Calcutta to Kobe, Japan, never to return to India.

Finding Refuge

Refuge In The Basement Of A Bakery

Upon arriving in Tokyo, Bose was taken in by Mitsuru Toyama, a prominent Pan-Asian leader. When British authorities tracked him down, Toyama arranged for Bose to hide in the basement of Nakamuraya, a bakery established in 1909 by Aizo and Kokko Soma. This bakery was not just a place for baked goods; it served as a gathering spot for artists, intellectuals, and politicians who supported Asian independence. The Somas sheltered Bose for several months, allowing only close family members to care for him. During this time, he shared his cherished recipe for Bengali chicken curry with them.

A Love Story Amidst Turmoil

A Love Story Most History Books Have Forgotten

In 1918, after the British extradition order was lifted, Bose married Toshiko, the elder daughter of the Somas and a gifted painter. Their interracial marriage caused quite a stir in Tokyo, as such unions were frowned upon in 1910s Japan, especially involving political exiles. Despite societal backlash, Toshiko embraced her role, managing the household while Bose focused on his independence efforts. They had two children, but tragically, Toshiko passed away from tuberculosis in 1925 at just 28 years old. Following her death, Bose dedicated himself to his work and never remarried.

The Birth of Indo-Karii

The Curry That Became A National Obsession

In 1927, two years after Toshiko's death, Bose collaborated with his father-in-law Aizo to launch a small Indian restaurant on the first floor of Nakamuraya. He meticulously oversaw the spices and cooking methods, ensuring the dish remained true to its Indian roots, despite the Japanese preference for milder flavors. Named Indo-Karii, or pure Indian curry, it took time to gain popularity, but once it did, it became a sensation. Tokyo's newspapers dubbed it the taste of love and revolution, intertwining Bose's political struggles with his personal life. Eventually, Nakamuraya became one of the first Japanese food companies to be listed on the Tokyo Stock Exchange, with the curry surpassing the bakery's famous custard buns in sales.

Final Days and Last Wishes

A Last Wish In A Tokyo Hospital

Bose continued his fight for Indian independence throughout the 1930s, establishing the Indian Independence League in Bangkok in 1942 and later passing its leadership to Subhash Chandra Bose in 1943. By 1944, his health deteriorated, and he spent his last months in a Tokyo hospital, listening to radio updates about the Indian National Army's progress. When asked about his appetite, he lamented that he could not eat because the nurses did not bring him the Indian curry he longed for from Nakamuraya. He passed away on January 21, 1945, just two years before India gained independence. Posthumously, the Japanese Emperor honored him with the Order of the Rising Sun. The Nakamuraya restaurant remains in its original Shinjuku location, adorned with vintage photographs of the Soma family and the revolutionary they sheltered. The recipe Bose created has remained largely unchanged for nearly a century. The next time you hear about an Indian freedom fighter who has been forgotten, remember that in Tokyo, his legacy lives on through the Indo-Karii served in a small basement restaurant.