From Kabul to Copenhagen: Chef Enayatullah Safi's Culinary Journey Inspired by Bollywood

A Journey Rooted in Cinema

Chef Enayatullah Safi's first encounter with India wasn't through its cuisine but rather through the flickering images on a television in war-torn Kabul. Born in 1988, his childhood unfolded amidst the chaos of Afghanistan, yet one family tradition provided solace. They would draw the curtains, isolating themselves from the turmoil outside, and immerse in Bollywood films. "For a few hours, we escaped reality," he reminisces. "Indian cinema brought us hope, joy, and a world to dream about."

These cherished moments watching the likes of Shah Rukh Khan, Aamir Khan, and Sridevi would eventually guide him from Kabul to Copenhagen, and later to India, this time through the lens of food.

Finding a Home in Bollywood

In 2001, when the Safi family sought refuge in Denmark, Enayatullah was just a teenager. Adapting to a new culture and language was challenging. Ironically, as Afghanistan faded into the background, India remained a constant presence. "We lost our connection with Afghanistan," he explains, "but Bollywood kept India alive in my heart. I never stopped watching its films and series."

Cinema became his cultural guide, leading him to India during his college years, where he explored Delhi, Jaipur, and Mumbai. This trip marked his first real taste of Indian culinary culture, igniting a passion that would lead him back to Copenhagen, not to pursue acting, but to recreate the flavors that had enchanted him.

Crafting His Bollywood Dream

Before establishing his restaurant, Safi gained experience in various kitchens, from washing dishes in a Chinese eatery to managing an Italian restaurant. However, Indian cuisine called to him. At that time, Copenhagen's Indian dining scene primarily featured familiar dishes made from traditional recipes. Recognizing an opportunity, he thought, "I could be the hero from Bollywood—not through acting, but by cooking Indian food and sharing my story." He transformed a small café into an Indian restaurant, marking the start of an incredible journey across Europe, one thali at a time.

Initially, customers only ordered butter chicken. "For the first two weeks, every order was butter chicken," he chuckles. Instead of giving in, he introduced tasting menus inspired by Indian thalis, allowing guests to experience chaats, biryanis, paneer dishes, and regional specialties they had never tried before. This strategy paid off, as biryanis now rival butter chicken in popularity, and tasting menus have become a hallmark of his restaurant.

Food as a Bridge

Safi often faces the question, 'You’re Afghan. Why Indian food?' His consistent response is, "When people grasp the passion behind my work, they stop asking." He collaborates with over ten Indian chefs and has garnered acclaim from even the most discerning critics.

With a degree in Political Science, he believes that food can achieve what politics often cannot. He has cooked for the Danish Prime Minister during embassy events in India, coining the term 'Open-faced sandwich diplomacy.' "Sharing a meal makes conversations flow more easily," he notes. "No one dislikes good food."

Making a Difference Beyond the Plate

Safi's restaurants do more than serve meals; they also contribute to the community. In Denmark, he organizes free lunches for the elderly to combat isolation. In India, he supports children's initiatives in Pushkar, adhering to a simple principle: every meal served should help provide another meal elsewhere. "You don’t need to be wealthy to make a difference," he asserts. "You can start with what you have."

Despite living abroad for years, Bollywood remains integral to his family life. His three-year-old daughter enjoys dancing to Bollywood tunes at home. One film, in particular, holds deep meaning for him. When he showed 'Dangal' to his Afghan mother, she was moved to tears, telling him it changed her perspective on daughters. With two daughters of his own and the challenges Afghan women face, the film symbolizes more than just entertainment. For a boy who once found refuge in Bollywood, it serves as a testament to cinema's power to transform lives.

Quick Servings

Favourite Indian dish: Dal

Favourite Afghan dish: Kabuli pulao

Favourite Danish dish: Open-faced sandwich (Smørrebrød)

Favourite Indian actor: Aamir Khan

Favourite Indian actress: Sridevi; among the younger generation, Alia Bhatt

One spice he can’t cook without: Green cardamom (elaichi)

Chef who inspires him: Anthony Bourdain, Vikas Khanna, and Ranveer Brar