Exploring the Rich Flavors of Gosht Beliram: A Culinary Journey

A Culinary Tradition in Assam

Silver Spoon

In Assam, where I hail from, there's a traditional guideline for preparing meat: avoid pairing tomatoes with red meat. You can use various ingredients like potatoes, pumpkins, or gourds, but tomatoes are a no-go. It took considerable effort to convince my Punjabi husband and his family that including potatoes in meat dishes is not a compromise on authenticity; rather, it enhances the flavor and texture.

Despite my explanations, they remained unconvinced. As a middle ground, I agreed to omit the potatoes but firmly upheld the 'no tomato' principle in my kitchen!

A New Culinary Experience

When I was invited to sample Gosht Beliram by Vernika Awal, who has reimagined the Ikk Punjab restaurants for owners Deepika and Rajan Sethi, I felt a mix of excitement and apprehension. This was due to my belief that all mutton dishes in Punjab tend to taste similar, regardless of their names—be it mutton curry or Mutton Rogan Josh, they all feature a tomato-based sauce.

For those unfamiliar, Gosht Beliram has its roots in the royal kitchen of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The dish was created by Khansama Beliram, who was tasked by the Maharaja to prepare something unique. The result was a lamb dish with a rich gravy that captivated the Maharaja, leading him to name the curry after his cook.

Authenticity and Adaptation

Curious about the authenticity of the recipe, I asked Vernika whether Gosht Beliram has remained true to its original form or if it has undergone changes over time. She mentioned that while they strive for authenticity, some modern adaptations have inevitably crept in.

I pressed further, wondering if Khansama Beliram would have used tomatoes, considering they were a relatively new addition to Indian cuisine around 300 years ago. Vernika acknowledged this but noted that Punjabis adapted quickly, and during Maharaja Ranjit Singh's era, tomatoes would likely have been available in the royal kitchen.

A Taste of Tradition

With this in mind, I opted for Kunna Gosht, a homestyle dish cooked in a handi with a lighter gravy, which originates from the Pakistani side of Punjab. Ikk Punjab, which began its journey seven years ago in Delhi, has recently expanded its presence in Delhi, Gurugram, and Chandigarh, showcasing authentic dishes from both sides of Punjab, including Chapli Kabab and Sajji.

Vernika pointed out that while Kunna Gosht is popular, it doesn't have the same royal flair as Gosht Beliram, which is rooted in a royal kitchen, unlike Kunna Gosht, which is more common.

The Flavorful Experience

Ultimately, I decided on Gosht Beliram. Soon, a young server brought a metal handi filled with aromatic mutton and a side of khameri roti.

The aroma was irresistible, and the rich, creamy gravy had a deep brown hue, thanks to a generous amount of fried onions and roasted cumin. The mutton, marinated in a special garam masala and slow-cooked by Chef Manoj Kumar, was incredibly tender. The freshly baked khameri roti complemented the dish perfectly. My initial concerns about tomatoes faded away as the delightful combination of the roti's crunch and the creamy gravy danced on my palate, reminiscent of the experience enjoyed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh centuries ago!