Reviving Assam's Handloom Heritage: The Story of Mahanta Silk House

A Flourishing Business Ahead of Rongali Bihu

Dhemaji, March 16: With Rongali Bihu just around the corner, a bustling garment store located in the rural area of Machkhowa Chariali in Dhemaji district, close to the Lakhimpur border, is experiencing a surge in business.

At Mahanta Silk House, wholesale buyers from Majuli and various regions of Lakhimpur are seen exploring a wide array of Tussar and Muga silk items, including mekhela-chadors, cotton clothing, and traditional gamochas crafted from pokuwa suta (braided yarn).

Amidst the activity, 82-year-old Narahari Mahanta oversees the influx of customers and orders with a calm demeanor.

Alongside wholesale clients, a continuous flow of retail shoppers fills the store. For Mahanta and his team, such scenes have become commonplace as the festive season approaches, driving up the demand for handloom textiles.

However, the success of this rural business is rooted in a story of perseverance.

“In 1976, I arrived in Dhakuakhana from Sualkuchi with less than Rs 100 and began selling locally sourced handloom garments on my bicycle,” Mahanta reminisces.

The seasoned entrepreneur harbored aspirations of establishing a silk industry in the Dhakuakhana area.

In 1985, he launched his first loom, producing four pairs of plain Muga silk mekhela-chadors. As demand increased, he gradually expanded his operations.

By 2002, Mahanta inaugurated his current store at Machkhowa Chariali and set up multiple looms to create Muga, Eri, and other organic yarn textiles.

His commitment to quality and traditional designs led to rapid success. Today, the two-story store offers handloom garments, yarns, threads, and textiles, while a large shed behind the shop houses numerous looms that weave Muga, Tussar, and cotton fabrics, producing traditional garments like riha, mekhela-chador, and gamocha.

Mausumi Saikia Mahanta in the store. (AT Photo)

“Our products are defined by quality and authenticity,” states Mausumi Saikia Mahanta, Narahari's daughter-in-law, who plays a key role in managing the family business.

She mentions that while there have been attempts to imitate Muga silk by blending Tussar threads, the business maintains rigorous quality standards.

This commitment to authenticity has allowed the brand to expand its reach beyond Assam. “Our products are now available in the United States, the United Kingdom, and Gulf countries,” she adds.

Narahari Mahanta takes great pride in the weaving traditions of Assam. “No external entity can rival Assamese patterns and designs,” he asserts, noting that many motifs found in Banarasi silk are inspired by Assam's traditional designs.

Over the years, Mahanta's business has evolved into a vital economic center in the rural area. In addition to operating his own looms, he sources textiles from over 100 looms run by women weavers in nearby villages across Dhemaji and Lakhimpur.

The consistent demand for handwoven textiles has significantly enhanced the livelihoods of these rural artisans.

Nonetheless, the veteran weaver expresses concern for the future of Muga silk, one of Assam's most valued natural fibers.

Mahanta points out that ecological degradation in the Dhakuakhana region, particularly due to the expansion of tea plantations near Som trees, which are essential for Muga silkworms, is beginning to impact silk production.

“The proximity of tea gardens to Som trees is affecting the growth and development of Muga silk,” he explains.

Despite these challenges, as Bihu approaches and customers flock to his store, Mahanta remains hopeful that Assam's handloom legacy will persist, carefully woven through the efforts of rural artisans and cherished by generations to come.